Invasion of the California Pinots

Though I've often been in denial for years, alas, I grudgingly have to admit that California makes some darned good Pinot Noirs. They are different from Oregon Pinots, but that's not necessarily bad. For years, there was the fear that California's huge capacity to produce wine and price it below Oregon's offerings would ultimately crush the Oregon industry. After all, Oregon Pinots are more expensive and are more "Burgundian." But, whenever I taste Carneros Pinots especially, I enjoy them. And Oregon wineries have more than held their own and established a solid place in the world Pinot Noir pecking order.

Firepit and outdoor tasting room at Ardiri Winery

Having visited the winery when it was owned by the late Gary Andrus (Pine Ridge, Archery Summit and Gypsy Dancer), the makeover is impressive and gives the winery a completely new, upscale personality. The wines are all new as well. Ardiri's first Oregon Pinot is in the barrel and won't be bottled until January. But, there are two Carneros pinots available as well as well as an estate grown Chardonnay-Pinot Blanc blend.

I liked both of the Carneros Pinots, especially the 2008, which has a wonderful perfume nose and compelling hints of plum and cola on the pallet. The 2009 in the barrel was similar though with more fruit and spice. Both were delightful and a pleasant change from Oregon Pintos. I found the '08s and '09s to be somewhat salty, but salty in a good way -- like sea salt chocolate. And the price is right. The '07 is $25 and the '08 $28 with great discounts for wine club members.

Time will tell, but I say welcome Californians. The Oregon pinot industry is big enough and diverse enough to welcome wines made from grapes grown in California and trucked north. It's not an easy thing to do as others (Patricia Green Cellars) have tried this in the past without commercial success. Ardiri is a serious entrant in Oregon's ever expanding vinosphere. The significant investment is impressive and joins the growing number of wineries who are realizing that it takes more than making great wine to attract customers. Viva la diversity!